Hello, would anyone have correct specs for the Renegade? Tried to get my car aligned but i think they messed up something and would like to know if they used correct specs.
Also, can front/rear camber be adjusted by loosening the bolts and moving subframes left/right to even out the camber?
(on older compasses this was possible due to large mounting holes)
Jan, i have rebuilt 2 engines, 3rd will be ready this week hopefully. My coworker bought one and he will start assembling once i supply the parts for him.
Torques are available, instructions not so much but its not rocket science.
Initially i thought about locking the pulley in place but new 22-> seems to be holding better, that makes me think that correct torque is the solution. The timing procedure also requires the pulley to be loose when starting as camshaft is locked first.
Depending of the damage and mileage i would recommend:
-head gasket
-new valves
-replacement head/repairing current one
-If valves have hit pistons hard, replace pistons as they will be oval after hit(!!!)
-timing chain if closer to 100000km
Did you see another video i made? https://youtube.com/shorts/pyrBHewhpiw?si=YESpE9_Oeb5wn1Pz
Someone more knowledgeable here should educate us about the softwares.
But there was software update on these cars:
Check mopar site if yours is done, checked one i have and it is marked as done:
Lookup FCA Vehicle Recalls by VIN | Official Mopar® Site
They dont mention, but i have been thinking if it somehow affects max charging/boost on the starter generator, it might affect how the bolt is holding.
Also the type of oil used affects the load on pulley when starting.
Jamar: Remember you dont need to disassemble everything, just remove head and pistons if the valves have hit.
If head is damaged, then either try to find used one (couple for sale at the moment) and i can help you getting the valves, pistons etc if needed. less than 1000 eur for the parts if head is ok, less than 500 if pistons are ok.
Regarding what you write here: "In hindsight, I realized that the mechanic actually didn’t need to tighten that pulley on the second engine, because it was part of the new engine—but the timing belt had to be adjusted because the original P1f starter-generator was connected to the new block. He definitely used a valve setting tool, though"
1: I'm thinking someone misunderstood something here: If he didnt tighten the pulley, he didnt use valve timing tools, valve timing tool has crankshaft locking tool included so why would he use valve tool without using crank bolt tool?
2: There is no timing belt, starter-generator has serpentine belt and it has auto adjuster, no need to adjust that.
What year was your replacement engine? completely new or used one? Did it have torque mark on the pulley bolt.
Did i show everyone my video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebsTJw8G_Tc
Does not sound good.
1. I agree, several cases around the europe.
2. Im wondering if they loosened the pulley before retightening? If yes, they would need timing tools as engine looses timing when pulley is loosened. I did read here 20Nm + 170 Degrees is the torque for the bolt.
3. You dont necessary need new engine, just have them remove the cyl head and inspect the valves. We just opened one with loose pulley and all valves were straight. If valves are bent, replace and reinstall the head. (also you could check if your old engine might be repairable)
4. I did 2 first repairs by removing timing cover and oil pan, now with 3rd one in trying to perform the work without removing them, it may work but im not 100% sure yet, much easier if i can. This one had 6 exhaust valves in pieces.
So it seems you somehow overload (overheat) the battery heating element and Jeeps solution is to replace the whole battery instead of the heating element.
I'm sure this could be avoided by adjusting the heater settings in the cars configuration (software) but Jeep is not interested (yet) as this is only small population here in the north.
Hi, I'm wondering what this refers to:
"They also mentioned that they might have to replace the battery again. After all, there are only 200 vehicles affected, and they would all have to be located in the north, like me "
Did they tell you that there is issue with batteries?
There is one other car in Finland currently with same fault on dash.
Hello, so i filled the tank, drove maybe 20 km in city, drove 130 km to work, form stayed on, drove back home 130 km, filled 28 litres, when i left from fuel station the form was off and i was able to select electric again.
Did some tests this morning, -15C outside temp when i left home, preconditioned the car before leaving, engine temp showed -8C, outside temp was -11C when i got to my destination, drove 130 km at 106km/h. Engine temp never got higher than 76C, transmission temp was 74C.
I feel this is too low and i will need to find a solution for this.
Lower part of the grille is blocked but this does not seem to be sufficient.
How are everyones engine temps? i watched the temp screen and during city driving at -15 celsius the engine never reached more than 75 deg C. This is with lower grille completely blocked. (Car is in FORM so engine runs all the time)
I made experiment last weekend, I removed the flex hose attached with 2 clamps between air cleaner and radiator support. Plugged the air intake hole at radiator support. Now it draws air near the catalytic converter and im hoping it is at least a few degrees warmer to help with warm up time.
My plan is to plug the lower radiator grille complete to help warmup too.
Im from southern Finland, Sipoo
I dont have anything to add but pictures are always nice
Im unfamiliar with the models, as mentioned, all my cars are 2020. The basic engine seems to be similar on 2020 units (at least suitable for replacement with minor changes).
I repaired one Renegade 72000km with used head from Ukraine, 4 new pistons and head gasket from ebay. Gave the car to my mom and she has been using it a while now.
For the second Renegade 55000km i bought used engine from ebay, seller said it has running problem but i took the risk, well it was bad decision as i installed it and started and it failed right away, one piston was in oil pan and valves broken. Now waiting for more spares for this one.
The third one, a Compass 52000km i have not even started the repairs yet.
Anyone who has one of these, at least 2020 models, i would strongly suggest to inspect the Crankshaft damper bolt tightness or to have it inspected.
There is no key in the crank pulley or crank chain sprocket so when the alternator (that is used also for primary starting the engine) turns the engine, the bolt may loosen and cause catastrophic failure (bolt has reverse thread).
Hello, new member here from Finland, sorry for writing in English, my German is not strong enough.
About the pulleys getting loose, i know there are atleast 5 confirmed cases here on Renegade/Compass hybrids.
I own 3 cars, friend has 1 and i have seen few in auctions also. All these were out of warranty so cars are being sold in auctions.
Last saturday went to pick up my latest purchase 2020 Compass with 52000 km i met mechanic while loading the car, discussed with him and mentioned about the 5 cases i have seen, he laughed and said there is atleast 50 cases...
